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Mont Blanc4808 metres, 15,782 feet.
First ascended in 1786 by J. Balmat & M. Paccard.
The highest peak in Western Europe
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Routes to the Summit
Gouter Ridge - the most frequented ascent route,
the route that we usually take, & the one that gives
the greatest chance of success.
From the end of the Mont Blanc tramway at the Nid d'Aigle 2372m, the route goes up to the Tete Rousse hut
at 3167m. We stay here for an early evening meal, & 1am breakfast; or continue up to the -
Gouter Hut 3817m after crossing the Great Couloir & an easy scramble up a long rocky rib running down
from the hut. Staying at this hut allows a later breakfast & a 2am start.
From the Gouter Hut, the route traverses the Dome du Gouter, descending slightly to the Col du Dome,
before ascending to the Vallot Hut at 4362m. Another 2 hours or so takes the climber over the Bosses Ridge, to reach the final snow arete leading to the summit.
The ascent from the Tete Rousse hut usually takes from seven to eight hours, arriving at the summit just
after dawn. The views are panoramic from the Pennine peaks in the east, to the Gran Paradiso in the south. 'There is nothing to look up to; all is below....'
From the Cosmiques hut 3613m, this fine ascent is slightly longer than the Gouter route.
From the top of the Aiguille du Midi telepherique station 3795m, the Cosmiques hut is reached easily in an
hour or so.
From the hut, the route first ascends the side of Mt. Blanc du Tacul, before climbing the steep snow slope to the Col du Mt. Maudit 4345m. after the slopes of the Mur de la Cote, a broad ridge leads onto the summit of Mont Blanc. Descent is either by the same way, by the Gouter route, or down the Grands Mulets route to Chamonix.
The highest peak in western Europe is
attainable for all levels of mountaineers, provided they have
good fitness & stamina. We offer courses which are designed to give maximum
chance of success over either
One week programme Six days. Designed to provide a basic acclimatisation to at least 4000m, with at least
one night spent in a high mountain hut. Three days are reserved for the ascent
of Mont Blanc, to allow flexibility in choosing the best weather window. If
the weather forecast is good, the extra day allowed for
A sample one-week programme, based from Saas Grund
courses Last for twelve days, with 10 days of
guiding and two rest days
sample two week programme
For our one week course, with
six days of guiding, and seven nights B&B accommodation at the Hotel Schoenblick
in Saas Grund, the cost per person is £1250
The cost covers all Guiding fees, hut fees, all
valley transport to & from your accommodation & to/from
All of guides hut & lift costs are paid for.
only need to budget extra for Alpine mountaineering Insurance (about £45 for a 6 day course), your meals when you are down in the valley (mountain huts, included
in the price, provide B&B & an
You have a single room at the Hotel Schoenblick, Saas Grund, on a B&B basis. You keep the room for the duration, even when you are away up in huts.
The cost of hut nights are included, with hut evening meals as well.
We run Mont Blanc courses from early May up to the end of
Call us with your preferred dates,
we offer anything from a 'long weekend' - starting on the Friday,